Dandy-ism
This May, I’m thrilled to announce the inaugural BLK Style event—the first of many to come. In celebration of Black women and the unique narrative of style they inspire, we’re not only unveiling select public sections of our site along with the event date, but also inviting you to experience a theme inspired by the 2025 Met Gala: “Superfine: Tailoring Black Style.”
Some of my male fashion counterparts were taken aback when I announced that this event would be exclusively for Black women. Yet there’s a deeper story here—a story that redefines tradition. When most think of dandyism, images of early 19th-century figures like George Bryan “Beau” Brummell often come to mind. Brummell, the epitome of masculine elegance and refined social status, was known for spending hours perfecting his look—a stark contrast to the overly ornate “macaroni” of the previous era. Historically, the English dandy—and his French counterpart, the “incroyable”—emerged in the 1790s, sporting a signature ensemble that included a felted beaver fur top hat, a crisp collar and cravat, pristine linen shorts with high-starch collars, and a tailored dress coat made from dark, high-quality fabric accented only by gilt buttons. Paired with a contrasting vest and breeches, this look was the very definition of restraint and elegance.
But dandyism is not just a tale of white, restrained refinement. Its evolution tells a much richer story—a transformation from the genteel silhouettes of Enlightenment Europe to a bold, vibrant movement of self‐expression and resistance within Black culture.
Dandyism originally emerged in the 18th and 19th centuries as a pursuit of refined elegance, epitomized by figures like Oscar Wilde. These early dandies cultivated a look of quiet confidence, marked by understated suits, minimal accessories, and an adherence to an aristocratic ideal of refinement. Yet, as history unfolded, dandyism was reimagined by those who were forced to wear identities not of their choosing. In early modern Europe, Black individuals—often referred to as “luxury slaves”—were dressed in lavish garments. Although this attire was imposed upon them, it sowed the seeds for later reclamation. These symbols of opulence, born in a system of exploitation, eventually became a canvas for resistance. Black men transformed dandyism into an act of defiance—eschewing the muted elegance of white dandies in favor of bold colors, striking patterns, and meticulous details that resonated with African diasporic heritage , .
A vital force in this sartorial transformation was the role of Black women. Often unsung, these skilled seamstresses and designers crafted the very garments that allowed Black dandies to express their individuality. Their artistry was both technical and deeply cultural—merging traditional tailoring with innovative, vibrant details to create a look that was simultaneously elegant and unmistakably distinct from the white dandy aesthetic .
The Harlem Renaissance marked a particularly transformative chapter in this evolution. Amid a cultural explosion in art, music, and literature, icons like Ma Rainey—the “Mother of the Blues”—and other Black women and lesbians embraced dandyism not merely as a fashion statement, but as a means to challenge and redefine identity. Rejecting the notion of simply imitating white aristocratic styles, these trailblazers crafted looks infused with daring colors, elaborate patterns, and culturally resonant details. Their style was an overt statement: while they aspired to the high standards of dandyism—exuding class, refinement, and impeccable taste—they consciously chose to celebrate their heritage and individuality in ways that defied convention .
The contrast is striking. Traditional white dandyism relied on a restrained elegance—a single, well-tailored suit, subtle accessories, and a uniformity that evoked genteel tradition. Black dandyism, in contrast, has always been about breaking the mold. It’s a dynamic, vibrant approach where every element—be it a brightly colored Ankara jacket or an unexpected detail in the tailoring—serves as a statement of unique identity and resistance against the status quo. Black dandies have never sought to mimic white standards; instead, they’ve appropriated the language of high fashion and reinterpreted it through a lens of cultural pride, resilience, and innovation.
Today’s BLK Style event is a tribute to this transformative journey. It celebrates not only the evolution of dandyism but also the distinct stylistic differences that define Black expression. By blending historical influences with modern flair, we honor a legacy that has long been about more than just dressing well—it’s about making a powerful statement of social commentary and personal liberation.
Join me as we redefine tradition, celebrate our heritage, and embrace a future where style is a bold declaration of identity.
More:
The 2025 Met Gala is co-chaired by A$AP Rocky, Pharrell Williams, Colman Domingo, and Lewis Hamilton. I'll make sure to include these names, mentioning that this year's theme "Superfine: Tailoring Black Style" marks a historical focus on menswear, the first time since 2003 when the theme "Men in Skirts" was featured.
-Tempestt